Techniques to reinvent your eye makeup.

The feature focus in this issue of EYEART - fashion, form, balance and structure.

The following techniques are simple and easy to use, and are adaptable to suit your needs – each eye look can be made dark or light, as long as you feel comfortable w/ the total look!

MODEL A

This look relates to a question from Rena from flash.net who wanted makeup tips for smaller eyes.

Description: small eyes, heavy contour, small lid area

Focus on keeping the eye open – too much eye makeup, or colours that are too dark, will close the eye, making it look smaller
• Be aware of dragging the eye shape downwards by keeping product placement above a 45 degree angle @ the outer corner of your eye

To recreate this look:

• 
  Deepen socket line w/ darker brown shadow
• Line outer corner of top lid w/ dark brown eyeliner – smudge away to nothing beyond the centre of the eye
• Soften contour w/ mushroom shadow (a slight shimmer will open the eye further)
• Lt ochre shadow placed on the inner corner of the eye as a highlight will make eye look larger
• Line lower rim w/ dark brown liner on outer edge – smudge softly toward inner corner
• Cream shadow highlights the brow bone
• To give added depth and shape, use a pink based mid-brown shadow on the outer corner of the eye
• Lt ochre frames the lower rim colours, blended softly it will not close the eye down
• Lots of mascara on the top lashes (clump free!)
• Deepen the brow to a dark blonde to define – go slightly above the brow to create more space

MODEL B

Description: heavy lid, slight drooping outer corner

• Be aware of dragging the eye shape downwards by keeping product placement above a 45 degree angle @ the outer corner of your eye
• This type of eye lid may have a tendency to look puffy if highlighted w/ pale, frosty colours

To recreate this look:

• Softly line outer half of top lid w/ liquid liner – blend into brown eyeliner right into inner corner of eye
• Use a strong deep brown shadow in the outer ½ of contour (above the eyelid) and sweep onto outer lid, keeping the angle going upward and outward
• Line lower inner rim w/ soft black pencil, smudge brown shadow underneath to softly frame the eye
• Creamy pink is used to highlight the browbone
• Strengthen brow – esp. along the top to balance the look and create extra ‘eye-lift’

MODEL C

Crystal from sprynet.com requested "to see makeup tips for people who do not have almond shaped eyes"

Description: small eyes w/ very little / no contour or lid

• Really work the shape you want to achieve as your end result – blending and softening the edges and colours to give the illusion of depth and structure

To recreate this look

• Extend black eyeliner on top lid using a slightly raised angle to create elongated shape
• Deep shimmery rust shadow softens the eyeliner, and is blended upwards and outwards to give the illusion of a contour
• Dark brown liner on the lower rim will frame the eye, blended into the deep rust to give added depth
• Soft gold brushed lightly all around the edges of the deeper colours will highlight and open eyes
  
• Curl lashes and add loads of mascara on the top and underneath of the upper lashes
• Brow shape is essential to finish this look – not only will it frame your eye, is adds structure, and is the quickest / easiest way to change any look (if your brows grow downward then shape them and trim the ends so they hold their shape – be careful not to take too much off or you will end up w/ little gaps…..)